What interface do I recommend with my purse frames?
*What #number interface do you recommend?
*What interface will go best with my silk? cotton? upholstery fabric? vinyl? leather? oil cloth? satin? shantung? etc. etc. etc…. 🙂
I get these types of questions a lot, and I always refer those who ask to my blog post about the 15% variance in interface that exists.
Given this fact, I wanted to go a step further so that you can make the best decision.
Here’s what I recommend: (And this is not a cop-out.)
*Take your fabric (that you want to use for your clutch) with you to your local fabric supplies store and test it out with the various interface available at the store. Get a feel for the thickness, fluffiness, stiffness, etc… with your fabric lain on top of the interface. Remember to have all 3 or 4 layers together: outer fabric, interface, inner fabric (+interface if you use this for your inner layer as well). And if you want to add batting, be sure to sandwich that in as well.
Why?
1. Personal tastes and artistic preferences differ from one clutch maker to another: what I consider “ideal”, others might consider “flimsy” while someone might think it’s too “fluffy”.
2. The variance of interface from batch to batch: up to 15%.
3. The difference in weight of fabrics: even among cottons – quilting cotton is much thinner than other cottons.
4. The design differences in the finished clutches: will your design be pleated or have other design features that will affect how it lays?
5. What size of clutch you’re making: you wouldn’t need heavy fleece interface if you’re making a coin purse, but you might want 2 layers of Thermolam + batting if you’re making a big clutch with straps.
The other important aspect of being a clutch maker is letting your own gut and creative instinct guide you. I provide supplies you need and teach you the basic methods, but it’s up to you to find out and determine what your creative style and vision is. Part of the fun is deciding the materials (fabric and interface) that go into making your clutches.
Rest assured, when I designed my purse frames, I tried many different combinations of fabrics and interfaces that most clutch makers use. This proprietary design took into account all those various weights and thickness and thinness of those materials in designing the perfect width of my u-channels. Whatever materials that you will be using, my frames made with the Perfect Fit 6(TM) u-channel when used with Gutermann glue will accommodate you and will not require any crimping of the frames. I’m always amazed at the different designs and materials that clutch makers have come up with!
So put your creativity hat on and go forth feeling up all kinds of interface! Go on, it’s fun!!! 🙂
Now, that said …. I will tell you that I currently use a combination of 987F (which is Pellon’s most popular fusible interface) and 973F. (It depends on the fabric that I’m using and the clutch that I’m making!)
Have fun out there!
~Winn 🙂
“What the interface?!?”
Did you know that all manufacturers of fusible interface have a hard time keeping consistency in their fusible interface?
Take a look:
And this is not because the top one is looser on the first 3 “rolls” and the bottom one is packed tighter. If you look at the relative size of the fleece, you can see how much fluffier the top bolt is compared to the bottom bolt. Yes, the labels are different but it’s the same product and product codes. After many frustrations of ordering and sending bolts back, I found out that making fusible interface is an imperfect art — even though it’s mechanized.
With Pellon’s wide breadth of fusible interface (which I love, love, love), from batch to batch, there can be as much as a 15% variance! So how bad is 15%? Well, think about how terrible it would be to lose 15% of your annual salary, or 15% of your monthly sales revenue!
To have this much variance in fusible interface and the making of your clutches is HUGE especially when we are dealing with millimeters in the channel width of purse frames. Too snug and it’s like squeezing on skinny jeans after a Thanksgiving meal! *Whoa Nelly!* Too thin of interface will yield an unsightly gap in your frame requiring crimping or cording to ‘stuff’ the channel.
Just like the manufacturing of metal purse frames — there are variances and errors. Just like with the interface, I personally inspect and check every frame from defects that the laser eye and inspectors can miss. But mistakes can happen, just like the photo above demonstrates. So make sure you work with a seller whose products you can depend on (hint: that’s me) and who will give you a full refund should mistakes happen. As I’ve said before: my sales are never final and you will always get a 30-day full refund.