Clutch-Me.Com

Learn. Make. Sell. All about clutches.

Tips: Gutermann glue for your clutches

The miracle that is Gutermann glue.  I cannot say enough about this little worker.  When I first made clutches, I have tried many domestic-brand glues and they either took too long to set/dry, failed to provide adequate adhesion, or too viscous.  It killed me when I had to throw away the clutch in the final stage of gluing it to the metal purse frame.  Oh, the mutiny!  Pirates had nothing on me!

If you’ve never worked with Gutermann glue before, you should know:

*It’s viscosity is similar to cement glue that is new.  In fact, get some excess on your metal purse frame and you can “roll” and “ball” it up/off just like rubber cement.  However, if you have a tiny excess and there’s not enough glue there to “ball up” and roll off, it will appear as a thin film on the metal frame.  Simply use your fingernail to gently scrape it off.  NEVER use an abrasive pad:  you don’t need to and you will scratch your metal purse frame.  *shriek*

*It sets quickly reducing your production time.  I recommend doing only one side at a time and waiting 10 minutes per side for it to set.  But in my own production (since I’ve made many clutches and produce many at a time), I glue the entire frame (both sides) at the same time.  I made a mistake one time and tried to take out the fabric to reposition it after 2 hours, and I could NOT remove it.  (There went that beautiful clutch…)  It’s on for good!

*It doesn’t penetrate your skin.  It will dry and you will peel it off.  Freakily, that is one of my favorite things to do!

*There is no warning about carcinogens in the glue, unlike other industrial glues.  My husband’s mom, dad, and 3 sisters had/have cancer and he works in Oncology so this is very important to me as I work with it daily.

*When you take the cap off, put the cap upside down on the table so that you can quickly reinsert the tube back into the cap and screw the cap back on.  This is especially important on a full tube as the glue just wants out.

*Until you get used to making clutches, start your gluing in the corner of the frame where it’s the widest and needs the most glue.  When you open the glue tube for the first time, a bead will quickly form at the tip and expand as the glue comes out.  So be sure to have your frame at the ready!  The tube has a nicely tapered end that allows you to put the glue in the frame channel nicely.  This tip is especially useful for medium- and smaller-sized frames as their channels are smaller.

*Before you store away your glue, wipe off excess around the tapered tip.  If you forget, no worries, you can just peel it off before your next use!

*Compared to other industrial glues, I feel that this one is much lower in odor. But as a flammable product, it does have that industrial glue aroma, so you can open a window for ventilation if you’re at all bothered by the glue scent.   I work with it daily, in the heat of summer, in the warmth of my workroom during a cold winter and I’ve never even cracked a window open.  For storage, I’ve stored it year-round on my shelves in my regular-temp workroom.  No additional precautions needed but I wouldn’t put it in a hot garage in the middle of a southern summer.

This glue is like liquid gold to me.  It really solved my problem of attaching it to the frame.  However, I also use it for quick fixes like hemming my kids’ clothes when I don’t have the time.  I have also used it around the house for other gluing needs instead of Gorilla glue, Crazy glue, wood glue … I just carry it around everywhere!

Gutermann glue for metal purse frames!

Advertisements

April 27, 2010 Posted by | Helpful Tips | 13 Comments

What’s the lead in these metal purse frames?

One technical question that I get asked by my potential buyers is “does the lead content meet (my state’s) standards?”  And it’s usually from someone in California.  California is known for its forward-thinking and tough standards on a lot of legislation affecting the environment, such as lead and pesticides.  Federal standards sometimes trail behind California on these types of regulations.

While metal purse frames does not have its own testing and certification requirements, it does need to meet the federal lead standards and guidelines.  As per the Consumer Product Safety Commission, it does require it for other products, most recently those intended for use by children 12 years old and younger.  Moreover, small retailers or sellers who resell used children’s products are not required to test and certify.  Nonetheless, lead level must not exceed 300 ppm.  For more information, please go to cpsc.gov.

That said, my biggest market is California.  My “nickel-free metal purse frames(TM)” are tested for lead at 90ppm and meet the US.’s lead standards.  So you can be assured of not only the high quality of my nickel-free frames (another topic for a post later), but also of the safety by the testing and low level of lead.

April 18, 2010 Posted by | Helpful Tips | 2 Comments

You need fiber – just not on your metal purse frame!

I’m all about fiber, especially for women!  But just not on my metal purse frame.  In my search of finding a good metal purse frame supplier for my clutches, I ran into quite a few snafus.  This is one of them.

Sorry for the blurry picture, but you get the idea!  You can rest assure that my “nickel-free metal purse frames(TM)” do not have embedded fibers like this.  This can happen in the oh-so-important coating process where stray fibers in the air can land and die on your frame.  That’s why you need a dust-free pristine environment — just like those Silicon-Valley-chip-makers!

The importance of fiber!

April 8, 2010 Posted by | Helpful Tips | 2 Comments

A shiny new coat for your metal purse frame

Who doesn’t love a shiny new coat?  Regardless of season, your metal purse frame should always have a shiny new coat.  But sometimes in the critical coating process, things can go wrong.

This post addresses the milky and cloudy appearance that can happen to the coat of your metal purse frame during the coating process.  That’s why it’s so important that you buy from a supplier who can do good quality control during the making of it.  The most important and last step is the final inspection done by the human eye, not some machine that just sends it down some conveyor belt only to eventually end up in your lap.

Milky appearance on the corner

This whole arm is cloudy!

This one below is what you want:  shiny, spankin’ new “nickel-free metal purse frame(TM)”

Look at me! I'm practically gleaming with pride!

Where to buy “nickel-free metal purse frames(TM)”:  whilebabynaps.com or whilebabynaps.etsy.com.

April 3, 2010 Posted by | Helpful Tips | 1 Comment

Nickel frame gotcha feeling gray?

Know your metals!  Not all “nickel purse frames” are alike.  Like everything else that is made, there’s going to be some defective ones in the batch.

This post deals specifically with the gray or smokey discoloration that can occur on the nickel frames.

Gray discoloration due to bad coating

Sometimes you can get a bad one where the surface coating wasn’t done right.  The result is a useless nickel purse frame.  These gray streaks cannot be rubbed off as they are permanent errors that happened in the coating and drying process.  Here’s a couple more samples of nickel frames that may leave you feeling gray…

Streak of bad luck?

Minor yet noticeable, and ultimately, unuseable!

April 1, 2010 Posted by | Helpful Tips | 2 Comments

   

%d bloggers like this: