Learn. Make. Sell. All about clutches.

Tips: Gutermann glue for your clutches

The miracle that is Gutermann glue.  I cannot say enough about this little worker.  When I first made clutches, I have tried many domestic-brand glues and they either took too long to set/dry, failed to provide adequate adhesion, or too viscous.  It killed me when I had to throw away the clutch in the final stage of gluing it to the metal purse frame.  Oh, the mutiny!  Pirates had nothing on me!

If you’ve never worked with Gutermann glue before, you should know:

*It’s viscosity is similar to cement glue that is new.  In fact, get some excess on your metal purse frame and you can “roll” and “ball” it up/off just like rubber cement.  However, if you have a tiny excess and there’s not enough glue there to “ball up” and roll off, it will appear as a thin film on the metal frame.  Simply use your fingernail to gently scrape it off.  NEVER use an abrasive pad:  you don’t need to and you will scratch your metal purse frame.  *shriek*

*It sets quickly reducing your production time.  I recommend doing only one side at a time and waiting 10 minutes per side for it to set.  But in my own production (since I’ve made many clutches and produce many at a time), I glue the entire frame (both sides) at the same time.  I made a mistake one time and tried to take out the fabric to reposition it after 2 hours, and I could NOT remove it.  (There went that beautiful clutch…)  It’s on for good!

*It doesn’t penetrate your skin.  It will dry and you will peel it off.  Freakily, that is one of my favorite things to do!

*There is no warning about carcinogens in the glue, unlike other industrial glues.  My husband’s mom, dad, and 3 sisters had/have cancer and he works in Oncology so this is very important to me as I work with it daily.

*When you take the cap off, put the cap upside down on the table so that you can quickly reinsert the tube back into the cap and screw the cap back on.  This is especially important on a full tube as the glue just wants out.

*Until you get used to making clutches, start your gluing in the corner of the frame where it’s the widest and needs the most glue.  When you open the glue tube for the first time, a bead will quickly form at the tip and expand as the glue comes out.  So be sure to have your frame at the ready!  The tube has a nicely tapered end that allows you to put the glue in the frame channel nicely.  This tip is especially useful for medium- and smaller-sized frames as their channels are smaller.

*Before you store away your glue, wipe off excess around the tapered tip.  If you forget, no worries, you can just peel it off before your next use!

*Compared to other industrial glues, I feel that this one is much lower in odor. But as a flammable product, it does have that industrial glue aroma, so you can open a window for ventilation if you’re at all bothered by the glue scent.   I work with it daily, in the heat of summer, in the warmth of my workroom during a cold winter and I’ve never even cracked a window open.  For storage, I’ve stored it year-round on my shelves in my regular-temp workroom.  No additional precautions needed but I wouldn’t put it in a hot garage in the middle of a southern summer.

This glue is like liquid gold to me.  It really solved my problem of attaching it to the frame.  However, I also use it for quick fixes like hemming my kids’ clothes when I don’t have the time.  I have also used it around the house for other gluing needs instead of Gorilla glue, Crazy glue, wood glue … I just carry it around everywhere!

Gutermann glue for metal purse frames!


April 27, 2010 - Posted by | Helpful Tips


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  6. For bending the frame, I use a 5/8 wooden dowel with a piece of leather glued on one
    end. I lay the purse frame on a hard surface with a piece of leather on top. I strike the
    dowel with a leather mallet. Doing this assures there are no marks on the frame at all.
    It seems to work pretty well. Have also used wood kabob skewers to push material into
    frame with good success.

    Comment by David Mashburn | June 18, 2012 | Reply

  7. Hi, your information is really useful. I made the mistake of getting a small amount of glue on my fabric – is there any way to remove this? Do you know if there is a safe solvent to use – acetone etc?


    Comment by Dolores @ A Labour of Love | May 25, 2012 | Reply

    • Yes, according to the information insert that comes with the glue, the manufacturer suggests trying acetone. I’ve had several customers try as well and it has worked well for them on cotton fabric. I’ve not used it myself since I don’t have overflow, but please try that and see if it works. Let me know!

      Comment by Winn | May 28, 2012 | Reply

  8. Hi there – what do you think about putting the ‘cord’ into the frame while you’re gluing it? The cord I’m talking about is the studd that Lisa Lam suggests with some of her patterns (link is here – main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=cord _)

    It’s the ‘Purse Frame Paper Cord’ and the ‘Purse Frame Floss Cord’ (which by the way I can’t find a US supplier ANYWHERE… Do you think this is really *needed*?

    Comment by Zen needleArt | September 16, 2010 | Reply

    • I’ve never used a cord to “stuff” my frame channels. I don’t need to. It’s an extra cost, and extra time. Use the right interface, frame and glue, and you don’t need to do that. I will be selling interface with goes with my frames by Oct. so watch for that. I swear by Gutermann glue. And I’m a big fan of Pellon’s wide breadth of fusible interface.

      If you find that your frame is too wide for your sewn fabric, I would recommend using a heavier weight interface: it’ll also give your purse more stability. A frame that’s too wide will be too top heavy as well.

      But if you absolutely cannot change your interface, then really, most cords will do — ones that don’t have too much give to them, so look for hemp or paper cords. I hope that helps.

      Comment by Winn | September 16, 2010 | Reply

  9. I cannot believe the amount of research you put into your products! I didn’t realize there was a science behind it. This information is invaluable. My sister and I are just starting out making clutch purses. Matter of fact, we haven’t made a single one. My order from you is waiting at the post office. We have chosen to use only quality materials, and are soooo glad to have found you as a supplier. We think we have come up with a new twist on an idea that seems to be very popular, but we’re still newbies.

    What advice can you give us?

    Comment by Kathy Schrempp | May 7, 2010 | Reply

    • Thanks Kathy! My advice to anyone making clutches is to differentiate yourself. You can:
      *Use fabric no one else is using
      *Use a style that few others offer
      *Add touches like ribbons or other embellishments to make it stand out
      *Offer seasonal sales (Christmas, Thanksgiving) like traditional retailers do

      If you are just starting out, use a fabric that’s easy to work with, like cotton. When you get the hang of sewing and gluing, then proceed to finer materials like shantung, silk and satin.
      Hope that helps!

      Comment by Winn | May 7, 2010 | Reply

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